Grand Seiko designer Akira Yoshida strikes you as a deep thinker when you meet him in the flesh. While it was not my first time seeing him in person, it was my first time speaking to him formally over an interview, and then informally during the touch-and-feel session while wandering around the Grand Seiko booth. I told him I was carrying a 100 yen coin in my jeans pocket, which he found rather amusing. The chuckles it brought broke the ice and language barrier, but more profoundly, it spoke to him of home. We were both, after all, far away in a foreign land, jetlagged and deprived of homely comforts. Fukuoka is where Yoshida-san calls home. Born in a Japanese temple, he draws inspiration for his watch designs from its culture, including ikebanaand minka, traditional Japanese houses.
His journey as a designer for Grand Seiko began in 2018, and he has since been credited with several notable designs, including the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001, the Heritage Collection Re-creation of the 45GS Limited Edition SLGW005, as well as the Sport Collection SBGE295. “I design watch cases, and perhaps the biggest challenge is striking a balance for light and shadow to coexist,” explains Yoshida-san. This aspect of coexistence or, better still, harmony, known as “wa” (和), finds itself at the heart of Grand Seiko, as explained by Yoshida-san. These are heavy hitters among Grand Seiko’s wide SKU range, and it speaks volumes about Yoshida-san’s pedigree and potential. “Oh, I have many ideas!” shares Yoshida-san with a chuckle when asked if he has a dream Grand Seiko watch he would like to design “but maybe the [Grand Seiko] 61GS.”
Your design journey with Grand Seiko began in 2018. How has your design philosophy evolved over the years, and how does it align with Grand Seiko’s signature aesthetic?
Grand Seiko has a solid design philosophy, and we design in accordance with that principle. Since 2018, when I started designing for Grand Seiko, I’ve become more conscious of the effective expression of light and shadow, as well as the importance of long-term usability with comprehensive after-sales service care. We design every part, from the case and dial to the band, with an awareness of the beautiful contrast between light and shadow.
Additionally, to ensure that the watch can be used for decades and across generations, we adopt design principles that emphasise the robustness of parts and the ability to withstand multiple disassemblies and reassemblies. We base our designs on authentic forms and appearances that are not influenced by trends. However, to avoid being too serious, we incorporate a touch of playfulness.
Among the Grand Seiko timepieces you’ve designed, is there one that stands out as your favourite or most memorable? What makes it particularly special to you?
There are several designs that I am fond of, but one of my favourites is the re-creation of the 45GS SLGW005. I’ve always been attracted to the charm of the hand-wound calibre, and the design using the cutting-edge 9SA4 was very intriguing. Additionally, I felt a sense of accomplishment in being able to recreate an important Grand Seiko historical timepiece with modern technology. By precisely crafting the classical form with sharp surfaces, we succeeded in giving it a modern impression.
How do Grand Seiko’s “Nature of Time” and “Spirit of Takumi” philosophies resonate with you as a designer?
As a Japanese brand, we always aim to promote Japan’s beautiful culture through Grand Seiko. We create stories that allow people to experience Japanese culture and aesthetics — stories that go beyond just wristwatch design. I’m happy to see Japanese culture reflected in Grand Seiko and its watches, and to see it gaining popularity throughout the world.
Grand Seiko is renowned for its unique blend of technical mastery and artistry. When designing a timepiece, do you start with a functional concept, or is it led by an aesthetic vision?
We don’t have to choose between functionality and aesthetics; they can coexist. In Japan, there is a concept called ‘beauty in utility,’ which means that functional and meaningful designs are naturally beautiful. When we focus on functionality, the resulting shapes often become beautiful and streamlined.
Watch design often combines precision and artistic freedom. How does Grand Seiko encourage creativity while maintaining its distinct identity?
The Japanese aesthetic at the core of the brand, known as the beauty of utility, focuses on refining elements rather than indulging in excessive decoration. With Grand Seiko, there’s a particular emphasis on the expression of the dial, incorporating textures that evoke the beautiful nature of Japan. While adhering to the beauty of utility principle, creativity is especially demonstrated in the design of the dial.
With the advancement of watchmaking technology, how do you think Grand Seiko’s design language will evolve in the future?
While the methods of design expression may change with the advancement of technology, the vision of Grand Seiko will not. The newly announced adjustable buckle is one such example, as it solely pursues the intrinsic value of a wristwatch. By staying close to our customers and preserving the essence, we’re constantly exploring new design possibilities.
This article was first seen on MENS-FOLIO SG.
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