When most travelers visit Japan, many stick to the gilded shrines of Kyoto or the neon-lit streets of Tokyo—and there’s nothing wrong with that, but that’s only half the story. The country has so much to offer to those willing to get off the beaten path.

Slip two hours north of Tokyo and you’ll find Nikko, a mountain town packed with UNESCO World Heritage Site-recognized temples and crisp alpine air—yet the crowds never quite reach the same peaks they do down south. Locals and travelers in the know have long recognized the area’s beauty, but Ritz-Carlton planted the region’s first international five-star flag here in 2020. After a week at the property last autumn, I finally see why brand loyalists rate this place among its best-in-class.

And sure, Nikko might be a little out of the way, but getting here is all a part of the fun. You can make the two-hour trek from Tokyo’s Asakusa Station aboard the Spacia X train, which launched in 2023.

Standard seats are fine, but the Cockpit Suite—a snug 120-square-foot nook up front—steals the show. Inspired by Nikko Kanaya Hotel, Japan’s oldest resort hotel, the suite has interesting retro design elements and gets you access to Goen Café, where a cold Nikko Original Craft Beer offers a taste of what’s coming. Then comes the half-hour climb to Okunikko (“inner Nikko”)—as the train weaves through maple-draped switchbacks, you’ll spot local macaques lounging on guardrails, watching you inch along as if it’s their personal roadside cabaret.

The Ritz-Carlton staked out prime real estate, claiming the 1898 Lakeside Hotel grounds between the Italian and British Embassy Villa Memorial Parks—it’s a diplomatic lineage that’s far from just for show. In June 2023, the property hosted the G7 Ministerial Meeting on Gender Equality, reaffirming Nikko’s cachet. Inside, 94 rooms blend political pedigree with the area’s natural scenery. The Ritz-Carlton preserved historic details like century-old shelving and original onsen (hot spring) plumbing without crossing into museum territory.

My suite overlooked Mount Nantai’s seasonal theatrics and served as the perfect setting for my time at the Ritz-Carlton, Nikko: dawn prayers with the resident monk, languid soaks in black-stone baths, and lake excursions skirting the former villas that once hosted Europe’s political elite.

“Experiences like a sacred fire ceremony at Chuzenji Temple are scarce in Japan,” general manager Alexander Westwood McBride said. “It’s our way of bridging both living history and unspoiled wilderness.”

That philosophy extends to the culinary lineup, where Italian-style aperitivos precede traditional kaiseki feasts, echoing the property’s east-meets-west undertones. At this hotel, you can live like a diplomat, meditate like a monk, and soak in hot springs like those famously unruffled snow monkeys.

This is what it’s like to stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Nikko.

The Rooms

There are eight different room types at the Ritz-Carlton, Nikko, with options ranging from double or king beds, mountain or river views, and a selection of plush suites. Entry-level Riverside Garden Rooms measure a generous 613 square feet—a pleasant shock if you’ve ever squeezed into one of Tokyo’s shoeboxes.

The rooms’ interiors were dreamed up by the Australian Layan Design Group, and feature the use of natural materials and hand-finished details. A genkan (a traditional Japanese entryway) entrance—yes, do leave your shoes at the door—opens to shoji screens and a private engawa porch, creating a natural indoor/outdoor flow that anchors guests to the surroundings. Inside the bathroom, a collaboration with Nikken Space Design produced stone rotenburo (soaking tubs) precisely angled to take in the national park’s greenery through floor-to-ceiling windows—a scenic warm-up for your onsen soak. If you want the full ryokan treatment, opt for the 2,981-square-foot Ritz-Carlton Suite, complete with a private fitness area, massage room, and tatami-lined meditation area.

Food and Drink

Tochigi Prefecture’s agricultural renown takes center stage at each one of the property’s four drinking and dining venues: the Japanese Restaurant, the Western-style Lakehouse, the Lobby Lounge, and the Bar.

The Japanese Restaurant serves up three distinct offerings—sushi, teppanyaki, and kaiseki. During lunch, guests can choose from gozen sets, which involve a main entree served with rice and a collection of colorful side dishes. The Nikko-Gozen set is inspired by the favorite dishes of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan, which ruled until the Meiji era in 1868. I was fond of the eggplant, beef, and yuba (a regional tofu skin specialty) dish.

Meanwhile, the Lakehouse, now led by Michelin two-star Chef Kanji Kobayashi, presents a clever east-meets-west spin—his Nikko-egg carbonara could convert any fusion skeptic. And during afternoon tea in the lobby, Tochigi Prefecture’s finest produce gets the spotlight: Nakagawa eel braised in red wine perched atop burdock tartlets, and meticulously layered chestnut parfait.

Over at The Bar, veteran mixologist Daisuke Tagami uses ice sourced from mountains to elevate cocktails like the Farmer’s High—a surprising harmony of sweet potato shochu, coconut, and cheese (yes, cheese). After dark, don’t skip The Bar’s collaboration with ramen brand Afuri: a yuzu-shio broth crafted with Mount Afuri spring water served in handmade bowls—it pairs well with the 80-label Japanese whiskey stash.

Activities and Amenities

I was ready to write off the activities menu as standard “luxury hotel perk” material—until I found myself in the lotus position, meditating alongside a Buddhist monk from a nearby temple.

The property’s deep ties to Nikko’s religious hubs unlock options typically reserved for locals and long-term devotees: private fire ceremonies at Chūzen-ji Temple, Shinto kagura dance performances in festival months, and more. You can also try your hand at furoshiki cloth wrapping or even craft prayer beads, but the real activity highlights align with the seasons. You can meditate near a waterfall in the spring, fish in clear streams in the summer, hike the national park in the fall (locals say the foliage is even better than Kyoto’s), and backcountry ski in the winter.

Getting easy access to Lake Chūzenji is perhaps one of the best amenities of staying at the Ritz-Carlton, Nikko. A ticket on a lake cruise lets you admire the basin from the water, drifting past preserved embassy summer homes—the Italian and British villas are the real standouts. It’s particularly spectacular in the fall, as maple and ginkgo foliage ignite the shoreline in vivid color.

The Spa

Nikko understood wellness long before “spa day” was a trend, and the resort’s onsen is proof. Fed by the mineral-rich springs of Yumoto onsen, the sulfuric water is a toasty 104 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. Floor-to-ceiling glass windows frame Mount Nantai, and you can book a private rotenburo that offers more discreet soaking. The Ritz-Carlton Spa menu here draws from local customs, and there are treatments on offer utilizing sake lees from a 150-year-old Tochigi brewery and volcanic stones that may have tumbled from Mount Nantai itself. There’s a 24-hour fitness center, too, stocked with weight machines, ellipticals, treadmills, and a sauna, but you’ll probably log more steps hitting the trail to the waterfall at sunrise.

Family-friendly Offerings

Technically, this is not a kids’ resort, but that doesn’t mean the property won’t work for families with children. There isn’t a standard kids’ club, but there are experiences here that can engage guests of all ages: relaxed temple tours tailored for shorter attention spans, e-bike excursions, plus seasonal fun like stargazing or paddleboarding. A family trip doesn’t have to feel like a compromise, and the Ritz-Carlton, Nikko, may just offer the right mix of culture, adventure, and, yes, the occasional meltdown-free moment.

Accessibility and sustainability

The property is made from several local materials, including Nikko and Ōya stone, regional cedar, and copper sourced from the nearby Ashio mine. The onsen operates on a closed geothermal system from Yumoto hot springs, while the kitchens use local ingredients sourced directly from Tochigi farmers. The hotel also has on-site electric charging stations and earned a Green Key certification (a mark of environmental responsibility) in 2024.

There is one room type, the King Bed with Garden View, that has accessibility features for those with limited mobility. The main entrance, fitness center, and restaurants are all accessible and valet parking can accommodate vehicles for people who use wheelchairs. The property has elevators and service animals are welcome.

Location

At 95 miles north of Tokyo, Nikko is an easy two hours away by car or train. It’s a three-hour drive if you’re coming directly from Narita International Airport (NRT) or Haneda Airport (HND). But, once you get to the hotel, you’ll be in the mountains of Nikko National Park, which has a microclimate with four distinct seasons—yes, real ones.

The entire circumference of Lake Chūzenji measures a little over nine miles and is lined with scenic trails. 318-foot-tall Kegon Waterfall is one of Japan’s three great waterfalls (and probably the least crowded, too), and it’s an easy five-minute stroll from the hotel. Winter typically sees an average of 16 feet of snowfall, while cherry blossoms bloom a cool two weeks behind Tokyo.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Book through Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts if you want sweet extras like early check-in, late checkout, and complimentary daily breakfast for two. If you book a trip before Oct. 15 this year, you can get a $125 property credit to use during your stay.

Since the Ritz-Carlton brand is a part of Marriott, you can book this property or earn points through the Marriott Bonvoy program. Since Marriott uses dynamic pricing rather than an awards chart, points prices fluctuate depending on demand. Peak pricing lands during cherry blossom season (late March and April) and autumn foliage season, which roughly takes place from October through November. Insider tip: the Lake View rooms in the west wing—specifically floors three through five—deliver a prime panorama without gouging your wallet.

Nightly rates at the Ritz-Carlton, Nikko start at 133,000 JPY (about $911 USD).

• Donna Camilla Savelli, a member of VRetreats in Rome, has re-emerged after a thoughtful renovation.
• The 94 rooms and suites have been reimagined with muted colors inspired by the soft hues of the property’s garden and the building’s historic architecture.
• Common areas, including the reception area and lobby lounge, have been redesigned for a more fluid flow.

Looking for a peaceful retreat in one of Rome’s most beloved neighborhoods? Donna Camilla Savelli has just emerged from a restyling and is ready to welcome guests once again.

A member of VRetreats, the boutique hotel brand behind 2022 It List hotel Ca’ di Dio, Donna Camilla Savelli, occupies a 17th-century convent on a quiet street in Trastevere, the village-like neighborhood famous for its quaint cobblestone streets, weathered buildings, convivial restaurants, and raucous nightlife.

“We have carefully preserved the soul of the 17th-century monastery, ensuring that every detail—from the restored frescoes to the thoughtfully reimagined spaces—reflects the elegance and heritage of Rome,” Maurizio Montecatino, the hotel’s general manager, told Travel + Leisure. “Our goal is to offer a sanctuary where history, art, and hospitality converge seamlessly, inviting guests to immerse themselves in an atmosphere of timeless charm.”

Originally designed by Baroque master Francesco Borromini, who left his mark on palaces like Palazzo Spada and Palazzo Barberini and churches including Sant’Agnese in Agone on Piazza Navona and Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, the building is a remarkable historic landmark in a city full of them. Directly inside the entrance, there’s a chapel still presided over by three nuns with details including angels that were added to the niches when the original sculptures were removed during Napoleon’s reign.

The lobby occupies a long, narrow hallway with arches, vaulted ceilings, checkerboard floors, and cornices. Guests can relax on the curved, modern sofas or grab a table for lunch or an aperitivo. The signature restaurant, il Ferro e il Fuoco, is located in an intimate room on the lower level and serves gourmet Mediterranean cuisine highlighting local ingredients and wines from Lazio. (There are plans to move it to the convent’s original dining hall, a vast space with wood-beamed ceilings and original paintings.) As soon as the weather warms up, though, both the casual Garden restaurant and the gourmet restaurant will serve meals in the verdant courtyard garden, which feels like a serene oasis in the heart of the city with its beautiful magnolia trees, hedges, and flowers.

The 94 rooms and suites have been reimagined with a mix of modern and period furnishings. Above the beds, panels featuring birds, trees, and leaves in soft, muted colors add to the romantic atmosphere, while brass hanging lamps and marble-topped bedside tables accentuate the space. Some rooms have original wood-beamed ceilings, while others have terracotta floors and four-poster beds. The Premiere Suite has a spacious private terrace overlooking the garden and a soaking tub under the monumental rose window that looks onto the chapel. Many of the rooms were carved out of the original nuns’ cells, which have been expanded and modernized—the nuns certainly wouldn’t recognize them now.

However, one of the hotel’s best selling points is its rooftop terrace, which offers panoramic vistas of the Eternal City that stretch from Janiculum Hill to the Vittoriano. For now, there’s no service up there, but there are chairs and tables set up so guests can bring drinks and snacks from the downstairs bar up to the roof and enjoy the views and the breeze. Those who want a more happening scene can just walk a few blocks over to Piazza Trilussa, which is surrounded by bars and comes alive with street musicians in the evenings, making it a breeze to experience the best that Rome has to offer.

• Glamping company Under Canvas launched a new brand, The Outdoor Collection.
• Guests can experience all the luxury that Under Canvas is known for, but in new locations and with different accommodation types, like cabins and cottages.
• There are currently two properties in the portfolio: The Fields of Michigan in South Haven, Michigan, and Bar N Ranch in West Yellowstone, Montana.

Ever since it opened its first location near Yellowstone National Park in 2012, Under Canvas has set the bar—high—for glamping. Now, the hospitality company is launching a new brand: The Outdoor Collection by Under Canvas, with resorts that have cottages and cabins in addition to the classic Under Canvas glamping tents. 

There are two properties in the Outdoor Collection: The Fields of Michigan, located in South Haven, Michigan, and Bar N Ranch, in West Yellowstone, Montana. Both were recently acquired by Under Canvas and operate seasonally. This year, The Fields of Michigan will be open from May 1 through Nov. 2, while Bar N Ranch will be open from May through Oct. 6.

Much like the original Under Canvas brand, The Outdoor Collection is focused on nature-based stays, though they may not necessarily be near a national park. However, guests can still expect the upscale amenities (plush bedding, great food) that Under Canvas is known for, including its iconic safari-style tents, but with the addition of new unit types, such as cozy cabins and contemporary cottages.

“We are excited to continue connecting people to each other, to extraordinary places, and to the planet,” Matt Gaghen, CEO of Under Canvas, told Travel + Leisure. “Whether visiting the western lodge that is Bar N Ranch in Montana or the blueberry farm of The Fields of Michigan, we know our guests will love these inspiring destinations, and we look forward to offering travelers more experiences as we continue to grow the Outdoor Collection portfolio.”

The Fields of Michigan is a dreamy 30-acre working blueberry farm with 23 units, ranging from a Simple Tent big enough for two to the Fields Cottage, with enough space for four guests. The safari-style field tents and cottages have ensuite bathrooms, electricity, and firepits. Under Canvas is, of course, known for its tasty on-site restaurants, and The Fields is no exception. Here, guests can eat to their hearts’ content at The Willow, which specializes in meals made with local produce. And though The Fields isn’t located near a national park, there’s still plenty to do in the area, with easy access to Lake Michigan beaches and watersports as well as hiking and biking trails. 

Bar N Ranch, on the other hand, is located in West Yellowstone, Montana, and sprawls out over 200 acres of land. It’s located just six miles from the entrance of Yellowstone National Park, giving guests easy access to one of the most popular national parks in the country. But there’s plenty to do on-property as well, with opportunities to ride horses, white water raft, and fly fish in the South Fork of the Madison River. Plus, you may see rescue horses, antelope, and foxes just walking around the resort. As for accommodations, you can select either a cowboy-chic room at the lodge or one of the private cabins, which have between one and four bedrooms. There’s on-site dining here as well, from breakfast to dinner (and craft cocktails for in-between). Much like Under Canvas, complimentary s’mores are available.

Nightly rates at The Fields of Michigan start at $138, and at $296 at Bar N Ranch.

Elba, Italy’s third largest island, is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea and is part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park. It’s famous for its mix of beaches, coves, and hilltop villages, making it a hidden gem for travelers seeking natural beauty and history.

Getting there, especially by ferry, is the most practical way for most visitors. And I love traveling by ferry. It gives your trip that extra something when you get on the ferry with other visitors and all the trucks with their goods. And it makes you feel even more like you are visiting an island.

This guide covers everything from ferry companies and schedules to prices and personal tips, balancing the ups and downs to help you plan a smooth trip.

How do you get to Elba?

Here is a quick overview.

Most travelers head to Elba via ferry from Piombino, a port town in Tuscany about two hours from Florence. It’s the closest and most convenient departure point, with ferries reaching Elba’s main ports: Portoferraio, Rio Marina, and Cavo.

There are also options from Livorno, slightly further away, but with more frequent departures, which might suit some itineraries.

Travel times range from 15 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the route and operator.

Booking early is recommended, especially in peak season (July-August), to avoid crowds and higher prices.

I recommend you to compare prices and routes for the best way to reach the island of Elba.

Ferry Options and Companies

The main ports on Elba are Portoferraio, Rio Marina, and Cavo. Depending on where you want to stay and the prices, you may prefer one or the other.

Several companies operate these routes, including Blu Navy, Corsica Ferries, Toremar, and Moby Lines. Moby Lines is great for families, with frequent departures and comfy seating, while Toremar offers the fastest route, like Piombino to Cavo in just 15 minutes.

Prices typically start at €18, but can go up to €35 or more during peak times, especially if you’re bringing a car. More info on that later. It’s wise to compare options online to find the best deal.

Schedules and Tips

Ferries run daily, with schedules starting as early as 05:30 and going until 22:30.

Travel times vary: Piombino to Portoferraio takes 40 minutes to an hour, Rio Marina about 45 minutes, and Cavo as quick as 15 minutes.

Booking early is key, especially in July and August, when ferries can get crowded. Also, parking at Piombino can be tricky and costly.

Flying to Elba

Yes, you could fly to Elba. The airport of the island of Elba, located in La Pila, is only 2 km from Marina di Campo. And there are direct flights to Pisa, Florence and Milan Linate in Italy, to Mannheim and Friedrichshafen in Germany and to Altenrhein and Bern in Switzerland.

As you can see, most of those airports are not the well known and big ones. So don’t expect the big airlines either. The ones that fly there are smaller airlines with small planes, as it’s a short runway and tiny airport.

Why Elba? A Quick Intro

Elba is not just another Italian island. It’s Tuscany on an island. Yes, Elba belongs to the region of Tuscany and is part of the province Livorno.

It’s a paradise with crystal-clear waters, rugged coastlines, and a rich history, including Napoleon’s 10-month exile in 1814. Whether you’re after relaxation on sandy beaches or hiking through its hills, Elba delivers.

But getting there requires a bit of planning, and that’s where ferries come in. The effort is worth it, but let’s talk logistics and get more into the details.

Ferry Companies: Who’s Who and What’s What

You’ve got several ferry companies to choose from, each with its strengths. Here’s a breakdown based on my research:

• Blu Navy: Known for competitive pricing and reliable service, especially for budget travelers. They operate routes like Piombino to Portoferraio and Rio Marina.
• Corsica Ferries: Not just for Corsica, they also connect Piombino to Elba, with options for island-hopping if you’re extending your trip.
• Toremar: My go-to for speed. Their Piombino to Cavo route takes just 15 minutes, perfect if you’re short on time. They also run hydrofoils, though note some don’t allow cars.
• Moby Lines: A bit more family-friendly, with comfy seating and frequent departures. Great for groups, and they often have deals for families, which I noticed when comparing prices.

Prices start at €18 for a foot passenger, but can climb to €35 or more during peak season, especially if you’re bringing a vehicle. It’s not recommended to book last minute for a summer trip, which then can cost €35 instead of €18. Always compare options, as prices vary by operator, route, and seasonality. For example you can find prices like $231 for Piombino to Portoferraio, which then includes 4 passengers, a car and at peak times. You should be able to find cheaper ones.

Schedules and Practical Tips

Ferries run daily, with schedules typically starting at 05:30 and going until 22:30, depending on the operator.

Travel times vary by route: Piombino to Portoferraio takes 40 minutes to an hour, Rio Marina about 45 minutes, and Cavo as quick as 15 minutes with Toremar.

Depending on your route and arrival at the port, take an early morning ferry, as the sunrise over the Tyrrhenian Sea is a highlight. Be prepared for a sleepy port at 5 AM. A such early departure is usually cheaper as well.

Good to know: Most companies now offer online check-in, which saves time at the port, so take advantage of that.

If you’re traveling without a car, most ferries allow foot passengers, and you can leave your car in Piombino’s parking lots, both free and paid. If you should decide to bring a vehicle, check ahead, as some ferries might not have car decks.

Here’s a table summarizing the key routes and durations, based on recent data:

Note: Prices and schedules can change, especially in high season, so always verify closer to your travel date. Booking early helps lock in lower rates and avoid sold-out ferries.

Beyond Piombino: Other Connections

While Piombino is the main hub, there are also connections to Corsica and Pianosa from Elba, which could be a bonus if you’re island-hopping.

For example, Corsica Ferries runs a 1.5-hour route from Portoferraio to Bastia, twice weekly, which sounds like a scenic ride.

Island hopping sounds good, right?

Read as well our Corsica Travel Guide – Lonely Beaches, Beautiful Nature and a Paradise for Hikers

Sardinia is also a great Italian island destination. Here is our guide on about how to get to Sardinia.

And here we have listed the best beaches in Sardinia, the best towns to visit in Sardinia and places to stay in Sardinia.

Challenges and How to Handle Them

Let’s be real—there are downsides. You might have a long drive before you catch your ferry. Then crowded ferries in peak season can feel chaotic, and parking at Piombino isn’t always smooth. Expect that some companies raise prices as ferries fill up, so booking early isn’t just about availability—it’s about saving money.

But with a bit of planning, these challenges are manageable. Book online, compare prices, and arrive early to avoid stress. I like to include 1-2 overnight stops on the way to the ferry so we can explore cities we haven’t visited yet. Then most operators issue electronic tickets, which makes check-in easier.

Read as well our travel tip about the benefits of an eSIM card when traveling.

Why It’s Worth It

Elba is worth a visit. I’m sure you won’t regret exploring this Tuscan island, whether you’re lounging on the beach or exploring its history.

I recommend to visit Elba late May, June, or September to avoid August crowds. And the hilly terrain suggests renting a car.

Activities include swimming, hiking and local cuisine such as seafood and focaccia. Elba is less crowded than other alternative typical Italian destinations and ideal for nature lovers.

Imagine biking early to Panetteria Mara in San Piero for sweet focaccia before it sells out, then swimming at Sansone Beach, spotting starfish while snorkeling. Hike to Faro di Capo Poro lighthouse for bay views or take the cable car to Mount Capanne for panoramic vistas. Explore hilltop villages like Capoliveri for shopping, and enjoy live music by La Compagnia Scapestrati at summer venues. At night, sip a Negroni at a Beach Club in Marina di Campo under the moonlight.

What else do you need?